Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.